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Destination guide

Mafia Island: Whale Sharks & the Marine Park

A low, quiet island off the Rufiji delta, where whale sharks feed close to shore for half the year and a sheltered bay of coral and ruins waits on the far side.

Plan my safari hereSafaris that go here
SizeAbout 394 km²; the marine park covers about 822 km²
AdministrationPwani Region, mainland Tanzania — not part of Zanzibar
Whale sharksRoughly October–March, most reliably November–February
AccessAbout 30–40 minutes by air from Dar es Salaam
Marine park fee (Sept 2026)Reported at about US$20 plus VAT per adult per day, half for under-15s (Marine Parks and Reserves Unit)
Known forWhale sharks, Chole Bay’s reefs, Swahili and German-era ruins

Mafia Island

Why Visit

Mafia Island whale sharks are the reason most travelers first look at this low, green island off the Rufiji delta. From roughly October to March, and most reliably November to February, the world’s largest fish feed on plankton in the shallow water off Kilindoni, the island’s main town, often a short boat ride from shore. Research on Mafia’s whale sharks shows an unusually high level of residency: rather than migrating away, many appear simply to move offshore or into deeper water outside the season.

Mafia is often sold alongside Zanzibar, but it is not part of it. The island belongs to mainland Tanzania’s Pwani Region, so Zanzibar’s mandatory inbound travel insurance is not required for a Mafia-only stay, though you still need it if your trip also lands on Unguja or Pemba. Much of Mafia’s coast and reef lies within the Mafia Island Marine Park, established in 1995 as Tanzania’s first marine park and covering about 822 km²; at the time of writing (September 2026), its daily entry fee is reported at about US$20 plus VAT per adult, half for children under 15, collected by the Marine Parks and Reserves Unit at the Utende gate.

On the east coast, Chole Bay is sheltered by Juani Island and a line of reefs, with calm coral gardens for snorkelers and new divers and walls beyond the bay for experienced divers. Tiny Chole Island holds the ruins of a Swahili trading town and German colonial buildings, half swallowed by trees. The lodges are small and low-key, the beaches very tidal and the evenings quiet. Mafia is the finale of the Zanzibar, Pemba and Mafia island-hopping journey, and our snorkeling and diving guide sets its reefs alongside the rest of the archipelago.

Best for

  • Snorkelers and divers hoping for whale sharks
  • Travelers who like quiet, unpolished islands
  • Couples who prefer reefs to resorts
  • Island-hoppers flying out via Dar es Salaam

Mafia Island

Wildlife & Highlights

  • Whale sharks off Kilindoni, roughly October–March
  • Chole Bay’s sheltered coral gardens for snorkelers and new divers
  • Reef walls outside the bay for experienced divers
  • The ruins of Chole Mjini: a Swahili-era settlement and German colonial buildings
  • The Kua ruins on Juani Island
  • Turtle nesting and hatchling releases on Juani, in season
  • Dhow sails to sandbanks and islets around the bay
  • Crab plovers, Terek sandpipers and western reef egrets on the tidal flats
  • Fruit bats roosting in the trees of Chole

Season

Best Time to Visit

  1. January
  2. February
  3. March
  4. April
  5. May
  6. June
  7. July
  8. August
  9. September
  10. October
  11. November
  12. December
October–MarchWhale-shark season, at its most dependable from November to February. The sea is warm and generally calm, and the short rains around November and December usually pass quickly. This is Mafia’s busiest time, which on this island still means very few people.
July–SeptemberDry, sunny and slightly cooler. The whale sharks are generally offshore or deeper, but Chole Bay stays sheltered and good for diving and snorkeling, while conditions on the outer reef depend on the south-east winds.
March–JuneThe long rains fall from about March to May, and many lodges close for part of April–June. Travel in the shoulder weeks is possible, but check which lodges are open before planning.

Mafia Island

Areas to Know

Kilindoni and the west coast

Kilindoni, on the west coast facing the Rufiji delta, is Mafia’s main town, with the airstrip and harbor, and the base for whale-shark trips. The sharks feed in the shallow water off this shore, so boats usually need only a short ride to find them. The town itself is a busy, unpretentious market town rather than a place to linger.

Best for: Whale-shark trips and island life

Utende and Chole Bay

Most lodges sit around Utende, where the marine park gate faces Chole Bay. The bay is protected by Juani Island and fringing reefs, dotted with islets and sandbanks, and calm enough for snorkeling, kayaking and first dives even when the open sea is rough. Divers head out through the passes to the walls beyond, and dhow sailing days explore the sandbanks inside.

Best for: Snorkeling, first dives and sheltered water

Chole and Juani islands

Chole Island, a short boat ride across the bay, has a village of about 1,500 people and the remains of more than 36 buildings from its trading and German colonial past, including a mosque and a prison. Neighboring Juani holds the older Kua ruins and turtle-nesting beaches, where hatchling releases are sometimes possible in season. Both are best explored on foot with a local guide.

Best for: History, culture and turtle season

Mafia Island

Getting There

Scheduled light aircraft fly from Dar es Salaam to the airstrip near Kilindoni in about 30–40 minutes, and lodges on Chole Bay are a short drive away. Flights from Zanzibar usually connect through Dar es Salaam rather than flying direct, so we check each season’s schedules before routing an island-hopping trip. Leaving via Dar es Salaam is the simplest way home, with the widest choice of international connections. Keep to about 15 kg in soft bags for the light aircraft; see getting to Zanzibar for mainland connections.

Drive or fly?

Flying is the only practical way in. A slow boat links Nyamisati on the mainland coast with Kilindoni, but the crossing takes around four and a half hours and the road to Nyamisati is long, so it suits only the most determined independent travelers. Planning Mafia as the last stop of an island trip, then flying out through Dar es Salaam, avoids backtracking to Zanzibar.

Airstrips & airports

  • Mafia Airport (near Kilindoni)

Typical travel times

Dar es Salaam (by air)
about 30–40 minutes
Zanzibar (by air)
usually via Dar es Salaam; roughly 2–3 hours including the connection
Mafia Airport to Utende and Chole Bay
about 20–30 minutes by road
Utende to Chole Island (by boat)
about 10 minutes

Stays

Where to Stay

Mafia’s places to stay are few, small and personal: a simple, guesthouse-style lodge inside the marine park at Utende, a handful of beach lodges on Chole Bay with dive centers close at hand, and a secluded island lodge in the archipelago for travelers who want the bay almost to themselves. None are resorts in the Unguja sense, and many close for part of the long rains, roughly April to June. See the styles we recommend among our Zanzibar accommodations.

Luxury lodge deck with loungers and umbrellas at golden hourComfort

Mafia · Utende, inside the marine park

Utende Marine Park Guesthouse

Lodge · Many Mafia lodges close for part of April–June

Small, friendly and unpretentious, guesthouses in this style sit at Utende inside Mafia Island Marine Park, a short walk from Chole Bay. Rooms are simple, the cooking is local, and whale-shark trips, dives and dhow days are arranged with small operators nearby.

  • Simple rooms or bungalows with fans or air conditioning
  • Walking distance to Chole Bay
  • Whale-shark and dive trips arranged locally
  • Home-style Swahili cooking

Ideal for: Divers and independent-minded travelers who want Mafia’s marine life at a modest price level

Luxury lodge deck with loungers and umbrellas at golden hourPremium

Mafia · Chole Bay

Chole Bay Beach Lodge

Lodge · Many Mafia lodges close for part of April–June

Thatched bungalows open onto the sheltered beach of Chole Bay, with a dive center, dhows at anchor and a view across the water to the ruins on Chole Island. The bay is ideal for snorkeling and learning to dive, and in season the whale-shark boats at Kilindoni are a short drive across the island.

  • Beachfront bungalows with sea views
  • Dive center and dhow trips from the beach
  • Excursions to Chole Island and the sandbanks
  • Full board is typical

Ideal for: Divers, snorkelers and couples who want the heart of the marine park on their doorstep

Luxury lodge deck with loungers and umbrellas at golden hourLuxury

Mafia archipelago · secluded island lodge

Secluded Mafia Archipelago Island Lodge

Lodge · Typically open roughly July–March

On a small island in the Mafia archipelago, a handful of villas share a beach, a reef and a team who can take you out to the whale sharks, to a sandbank or simply to dinner under the stars. It is about as far from the crowds as the Tanzanian coast gets, with very few guests and no passing traffic.

  • Very few villas, each close to the water
  • Private boat trips to the whale sharks and reefs
  • Diving, snorkeling and sandbank picnics
  • Boat transfer from Mafia

Ideal for: Honeymooners and divers who want seclusion and Mafia’s marine life in a single setting

See all stays in this area

Experiences

Experiences

Marine life of the Mnemba atoll reefs

Ocean & reef

Snorkeling & Diving in Zanzibar

From Mnemba’s shallow gardens to Pemba’s deep walls and Mafia’s whale sharks — reefs matched to your level, the month and your flights.

Turquoise water off Nungwi beach with a boat offshore

On the water

Dhow Sailing & Sandbank Trips

Lateen sails at sunset, tide-timed sandbanks and seafood lunches in Menai Bay — Zanzibar from the deck of a wooden dhow.

Safaris

Safaris That Go Here

Aerial view of a turquoise reef and white-sand island in the Indian Ocean
10 daysDivers & explorers

Spice Islands Island-Hop

Stone Town · Pemba Island · Misali Island · Mafia Island · Dar es Salaam

Divers, snorkelers and repeat visitors who want the archipelago beyond Unguja’s beaches

Best months
October–February (whale-shark season on Mafia)
Comfort levels
Premium · Luxury
Individually quoted

Good to know

Frequently asked questions

When is whale shark season on Mafia Island?

Roughly October to March, with the most reliable encounters from November to February. Whale sharks are wild animals, and sightings depend on plankton, weather and sea conditions, so plan at least two chances to go out. Outside the season they tend to move offshore or deeper rather than leave the area entirely.

Is Mafia Island part of Zanzibar?

No. Mafia lies in mainland Tanzania’s Pwani Region and has been administered separately from Zanzibar since 1890. That means Zanzibar’s mandatory inbound travel insurance is not required if Mafia is the only island you visit, though you still need it for any time on Unguja or Pemba.

How do you swim with whale sharks responsibly?

Go with an operator that follows Mafia’s encounter code: only a few swimmers in the water with each shark, no touching, a clear distance from the head and an even wider berth around the tail, no flash photography, and boats that approach slowly and stay well back. Encounters are made by snorkeling rather than scuba and kept short, so the sharks can go on feeding undisturbed.

How do you get from Zanzibar to Mafia Island?

Usually by light aircraft via Dar es Salaam, since direct flights between Zanzibar and Mafia are rare and not something to rely on. With a good connection, the journey takes a few hours door to door. Many travelers prefer to end their trip on Mafia and fly home through Dar es Salaam.

Is Mafia Island good for beginner divers?

Yes. Chole Bay’s sheltered, shallow reefs are a gentle place to learn, and dive centers on the bay run courses and easy guided dives. Once you have more experience, the walls outside the bay offer deeper and more demanding diving.

More Places to Explore

Continue exploring

Turquoise water off Nungwi beach with a boat offshore

Tell Us When You’d Like to Be on the Island

Share your dates, who is traveling and what you want from Zanzibar — beaches, reefs, Stone Town or a safari first. We’ll suggest the right coast and design a private trip around you, with nothing booked until you approve it.

Plan my safari here